DOUBLE WARPS

A term used by home trade buyers for a plain cloth made from twofold warp and single weft, good quality yarns. The cloth is used for pillow cases, underwear, etc. Widths 34¹/₂-in. to 36-in., 60 ends X 60 picks per inch, or 44 ends, one in a dent, and 72 picks; yarns 2/36's twist, 16's to 20's weft. The finished cloth is bleached and soft finished. All " double warps " are super qualities, giving strength and wear. The term does not mean two warps are used but simply a single warp of two-fold yarn.

A fabric with a warp satin face on both sides. Two sets of warp threads are used, with one weft series inter-weaving with both warps. Super quality yarns are often used. Heavy overcoatings are woven with the 5-shaft warp satin on both sides, and are known as double satin.

A silk fabric in satin weave made with two warps and one weft to imitate a double satin. Organzine warp and tram weft. Cotton weft is also used to cheapen the cloth.

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

A name given to gowns and petticoats about 1712 when there were advertised for sale "a purple and gold atlas gown", "a scarlet and gold atlas petticoat edged with silver", and "a blue and gold atlas gown and petticoat". ———————— A warp knit cotton fabric used very extensively for fabric gloves. The principal feature is the striped appearance of the back which shows horizontal stripes from ³/₈-in. to ³/₄-in. wide. In making this type of fabric, the yarn guides move in one direction for a number of courses and then reverse for a similar number. Two bars are generally used and they move in opposite directions. One series of warp threads arc used for single atlas with a traverse lap; or two series of warps making similar laps, but in opposite directions for double atlas, and this is perfectly ladder-proof, whereas the single atlas is not. The double atlas is largely used in making rayon lingerie. ———————— The German, Dutch, Russian and Danish name for the 5-end satin weave. The term is used to indicate the satin ground weave used in damasks, thus: - The 5-end atlas is the ordinary 5-end satin, and so on to 16-end atlas. A lining cloth - cotton warp and silk weft - woven 5-shaft sateen - giving a weft face of silk in many qualities. Another Atlas fabric with cotton warp and silk weft is made with the 8-shaft sateen weave.

A French brocaded tapestry double cloth, woven from two warps - one warp two-fold black mercerised cotton and the other warp various colours also two-fold. Each cloth is plain ground and the figuring is developed from six colours of rayon weft (Bulmerayon). The two cloths are equal, such as 96 X 80 or a total of 192-ends and 160 picks.

The back warp of double cloths. The interior warp of pile fabrics, used to bind the pile threads together. These warps also impart strength and stiffness to the fabrics, especially when used in costume cloths of wool or silk. They are mostly cotton yarn. ———————— A sewing machine attachment by means of which a binding is applied to the edge of a fabric.

The back warp of double cloths. The interior warp of pile fabrics, used to bind the pile threads together. These warps also impart strength and stiffness to the fabrics, especially when used in costume cloths of wool or silk. They are mostly cotton yarn.

A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used.

A cloth of the denim type, but not of such coarse yarns. Usually made in stripes from blue and white warps and blue weft, and in narrow widths up to 36-in. A light-weight denim used for women's aprons, dresses, etc., is made with 48 double ends of 32's T. per inch, and 42 picks per inch of 18's weft.

A carpet without a pile. Also known as Scottish carpets and in America as Ingrain carpets. They are double plain fabrics, each fabric of a different colour. The two cloths interchange positions according to the design, and this transposing of the two cloths also binds them together. The finished carpet is reversible. This style of carpet was the first to be made on the loom in this country. The best qualities are made from all-wool yarn - cotton warps being used to make inferior qualities. Many Scottish-made carpets are three-ply cloths - The third cloth being introduced to give a thicker fabric, and by using other colours gives much richer designs.

The original fabric is a native-made blanket, hand woven by the Navajo Indian women from wool yarns, in bright colours and geometrical designs. It was so closely woven as to be waterproof and the fabric was double sided. The principal native types are known under the following terms, which see : - Baghaitloui, Badotlizhi, Bilagai, Ditosi, Diyogi, Nago Nodzi, Nakhar Bicliidi, Yei, Yishbizh, Yistio, Jimas. The commercial imitations are made from strong cotton warps and a low price wool weft. Germany and Belgium supply the bulk of these blankets.

A warp-faced silk dress fabric, woven in 6- or 8-shaft weave. Made on one beam, with warps of single, double, triple and four-ply yarn, set alternately in advancing and diminishing counts. Sometimes two ends of each yarn were set together next to each other.

Fabric having parallel rows of tucks close together and covering the surface, or arranged in clusters with plain spaces between. Used for women's dress ornamentation and as fronts for men's shirts. The tucks may be formed by sewing or woven from two warps on a modified double cloth principle.